Spec E46 Build Part X: Safety & Interior

Much of the safety aspects of this Spec E46 race car build were covered in Part VII Roll Cage, so I’ll just be covering the final touches and refinements.  I intended for the car to be legal in both NASA and BMW CCA Club Racing, so a few additions such as a center net system were necessary.  For the most part, safety equipment legality is pretty universal as long as you are running approved (FIA or SFI) gear.

Racetech 4119For a seat I wanted a head restraint (halo) style bucket.  I went with the Racetech 4119 based on the good reviews and the nice addition of a backside cooling air port.  It’s also available in tall/wide, nice for my 6’2″ 200lbs frame.

For floor mounts I used VAC Motorsports matrix style aluminum mounts, which are fairly standard among this level of racing.  For side mounts I went with Motion Motorsport’s innovate competition seat brackets.  These brackets allow for infinitely adjustment and are asymmetrical left and right to allow close mounting to the transmission tunnel.

I opted for Schroth Profi II 6-point HANS belts for my harness.  These belts have 2″ lap webbing for better fit and can be set as pull-up or pull-down operation.  I tried both ways and decided pull-down was easier to get a tight fit when in the seat.

Teamtech Net and Joes Racing MountThe window and center (right side) nets are both Teamtech mesh nets, which were easy enough to install.  Fortunately my window net doesn’t interfere with seeing the side mirror, and the even if it did, the mesh is certainly easier to see through than grid webbing.  The window net is mounted using a Joe’s Racing kit, which uses nice billet aluminum parts.  The center net is secured to the dash bar, running through a small slit in the dash and held from sliding on the bar by a 1-3/4″ aluminum split collar.

MOMO Mod 78 350mm wheelThe steering wheel is a MOMO Mod 78 350mm race wheel, mounted using an NRG adapter, NRG short quick release, and NRG 1/2″ spacer.  The NRG products are hard to beat for the money, using all aluminum parts and anodized matte black.  The quick release uses spring loaded ball bearings in a unique pattern that only allows the wheel to go on one way and has a much tighter fit than I’ve seen with spline style releases.

CAE Ultra ShifterShifter action is taken care of by a CAE Ultra Shifter.  This is a very impressive piece, made in Germany from quality aluminum and stainless parts.  The shifter has a self-centering action and adjustable stops to keep from pushing the shifter further than the transmission forks can go.  It also has a lock-out for reverse, making it impossible to accidentally shift into reverse.  The shift selector rod is also from CAE and can be adjusted in length and rotation.  The setup requires a bit of tuning, but once setup properly it is absolutely the best H-pattern shifting action I have experienced.

The pedals remain stock, though I did remove the rubber covers.  For grip I added some textured grip tape to the brake, clutch, and dead pedal.  I also replaced the split plastic bushings on the clutch and brake pedals with Delrin units from Rogue Engineering.  These bushings fit much tighter, necessitating a little sanding for the right amount of friction.  The result is much less side to side play.  To keep the clutch from overextending and cut down shift times, a BimmerWorld mini hockey puck clutch stop was installed.  The OE stop is very small and the plastic clutch pedal can inadvertently go beyond it.

SPA AFFF 4L BottleFinally the fire system was installed.  I got lucky and found an unused SPA 4L AFFF system, which just needed re-certified to use.  The system is fairly simple, using push on connectors and tubing with an aluminum wall, so bending it shape is very easy.  I mounted the bottle behind where the passenger seat would be.  Because the cage main hoop foot plate was interfering, I mounted the bottle up on two pieces of 1/2″ square aluminum tubing.  The plastic tank cradle is riveted to the square tube, which in turn is riveted through the floor.

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The fire suppression system lines run from the tank forward along the transmission tunnel, split between cockpit and engine bay nozzles.  There are three nozzles in the cockpit, one on the tunnel facing forward, one pointed at the footwell, and one in the dash pointed at the driver’s torso.  The engine bay line splits, one to the left which has a nozzle pointed at the fuel rail and one to the right pointed over the headers towards the front.  I will probably add an additional one to point down into the engine towards where the headers are, just as a precaution against an oil fueled fire.

Kill Switch and Fire Pull HandleI used two 12′ T-handle pulls for the fire system.  The handles terminate at the corners of the dash, so they are easily accessible from either inside or outside the car by a corner worker.  They are also located next to the emergency kill switch for easy activation of both in a crash.

MR2 Spyder Rollbar by Illicit Motorsports

Jason from Illicit Motorsports did a bang up job installing this 4-point rollbar, harness bar, battery mount, and Lotus seat mounts in the MR2.  What’s more is he did it in short order, while he was preparing for nationals in Utah, so that I could make a track event.  Unfortunately some hold-ups with the harness installation and a few other last minute items kept me from making it to the track with the MR2.  He left the bars bare, which I coated with some rust preventive paint, followed by some POR-15 epoxy paint.  It didn’t come out as smooth as I had hoped, so much for “self leveling” paint.  The battery is larger than the original Deka I was running, this one easily cranks the engine every time.  Moving it to behind the passenger seat also got it away from the heat coming off the headers and probably did a little bit to aid in the weight distribution.  The bar was made after I visited his shop so measurements with my helmet on could be made.  The main hoop is as tall as possible without interfering with the hardtop, while the braces are welded to thick plate on the tubular reinforcement that runs along the top of the firewall.  The main hoop’s bases are welded to more plate just behind the fuel tank bulkhead.  A little customizing of a OEM harness bar I picked up in a junkyard allowed me to keep the stock three-point belts, though I haven’t yet fabricated a mount for the female receptacle.  I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

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Fuel pump, ECU wiring

Hey guys, sorry for the long over-due update. I’ve been busy with work, waiting on parts, and it’s just too damn hot to work in my garage. My photos are sorta out of order of how I’ve worked on the car, but I’ll try to make some sense out of them.

52. I installed the Walbro 255lph fuel pump into the Spyder’s housing. Not terribly hard to do, just required a few test fits and removal of plastic around the base plate to fit it. Since I’m going with an external fuel pressure regulator, I had to take the OE regulator out the equation. You can’t simply remove it, it has to be blocked off. So I screwed a properly sized stainless bolt into one end, with some fuel-safe epoxy as thread sealant. Then the whole thing was reinstalled. In the first photo you can see the top of fuel housing. The SS braided line is the return fuel line from the external regulator.
[IMG]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/fuel_pump_top.jpg[/IMG]

53. The Walbro has been known to whine, and with our pump right in the cabin, I wanted to reduce the chances of annoying sounds to minimum. To that end I covered as much of the sheet metal above the fuel tank with mat, first RAAMmAT then some Dynamat Extreme when I ran out.
[IMG]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/fuel_pump_cover_mat.jpg[/IMG]

54. To further quiet down the pump and engine compartment, I added a layer of Ensolite closed cell foam mat. I got this from RAAMaudio, makers of RAAMmat. I just cut it to size then secure it with some 3M spray adhesive. I also put a layer of RAAMmat and two layers of Ensolite on the firewall to reduce engine noise.
[IMG]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/fuel_pump_cover_ensolite.jpg[/IMG]

55. Now for a little wiring. The MWR/Boomslang/LR 2zz patch harness has three long wires for the lift solenoid and sensor. These must be threaded from the harness to the engine. This creates a problem if you ever need to remove the patch, since you now have wires permanently tied to the engine. So I got a three pole Weatherpack plug kit from McMaster-Carr and wired it into the patch. Now I can remove it easily by just unplugging it like normal.
[IMG]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/harness_mod.jpg[/IMG]

56. My PFC was previously mounted directly on top of the charcoal canister cover, but now I had to also find a place for the J&S Safeguard. Since the two together are too wide to fit on top, I used two strips of 1″ aluminum. I riveted the strips to the top of the metal cover, then used some industrial Velcro to secure the J&S and PFC to the the lid.
[img]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/PFC_JS_mount.jpg[/img]

57. Here’s the PFC, J&S, and Datalogit all installed. The J&S isn’t currently wired up, as I’m waiting until the engine is run just on the PFC to ensure the other wiring is good. Everything fits neatly underneath the plastic cubby panels, for a stock look.
[img]http://www.strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_AL/PFC_JS_Datalogit_mounted.jpg[/img]

more to come…