Spec E46 Build Part VI: Engine

M54 Engine Refresh

The Spec E46 rules are purposefully limited to keep competition tight and cost down, so the engine doesn’t receive much work except for mods which help it survive track duty.

9. Engine

1. Regardless of factory specification or procedure, no oversize pistons are permitted.
2. Compression ratio may be changed only within the tolerances affected by resurfacing for trueness and within factory tolerances, and shall not exceed 10.5:1 [exact value TBD] as measured by a whistler device.
3. Time-Sert or similar product may be used with threaded components.
4. Oil pan baffle may be added.
5. Spark plugs may be replaced.
6. Head gasket may be replaced with any gasket having the same or greater compression thickness as stock. Other engine gaskets and seals may be replaced.
7. Stock oil pump assembly may be modified.
8. Oil separator (CCV system) may be replaced.
9. Oil filter housing may be replaced with the E46 M3 part number 11 42 7 839 858.
10. Engine must be controlled by the stock ECU flashed with the Epic Motorsports Spec E46 tune. The Epic tamper proof seal must be intact.
11. Emissions related equipment may be removed.
12. Horsepower or other engine checks may be performed to ensure compliance.

New and Old M54The first decision was whether or not I should continue with the original engine or find a fresher donor.  The original mill had over 220k miles, had a Vanos that sounded like bolts in a coffee can, and was clearly down on power.  I hit up the junk yards and found an M54 out of a Z4 automatic with only 70k miles on the clock.  It had sat idle in the yard for over a year, so it was in need of a quality refresh.

I got it on the stand and begin taking it down to a bare long block.  All the original rubber was mostly dry rotted, some falling apart as it was removed.  The engine got all new CCV plumbing, new cooling lines, new valve cover gasket, and a thorough cleaning.

I went through the normal upgrades that my M3 has also received.  On the bottom end I replaced the standard oil pump with the Greg Smith Racing (GSR) four bolt pump.  This eliminates the weak splined shaft and nut with a much beefier shaft end and sprocket.

GSR Oil Pump Installed GSR Oil Pump

With the oil pan off I also installed a baffle from Achilles Motorsports.  I have the same one on my E36 and was pleased with the results.  Since I can’t weld aluminum I took it too a local fabricator to permanently burn it in.

Baffle Welded In Pan Installed

The Vanos (BMW speak for variable valve timing) system is known to wear out overtime, the usual symptoms are noise (like metal rattling in a can) coming from the unit and dead spots in the power curve.  Luckily Dr. Vanos offers rebuilt units with upgraded seals.  I picked up a complete unit and slapped it on the front of the engine.  The old one went back as a core.

New Vanos Installed New Vanos unit Vanos Removed

You can see the photo above and to the left that the Secondary Air Pump (SAP) flange has a blocking plate covering it.  All emissions and HVAC equipment has been removed, and SAP flange is one of the spots that needs plugged.  The others are the few vacuum ports on the plastic intake manifold that lead to the fuel evap tank.

The cooling system also requires a bit of attention to survive life almost exclusively at the upper end of the RPM range.  One common upgrade is ditching the plastic impeller water pump for a Stewart high flow all metal pump.  These pumps are significantly beefier than the stock components and eliminate the risk of a plastic pump exploding.  I also replaced the weak plastic pulley with an OEM equivalent aluminum pulley.

Another upgrade is the thermostat.  The M54 engine has a electrically actuated thermostat, controlled by the DME.  There is a fail-safe designed into the system, but it can still result in a catastrophic over heating.  A solution was developed by Zionsville Autosport which uses a modified stock housing, an aluminum plate, and a traditional mechanical thermostat.

Zionsville M54 Thermostat Stewart Water Pump Pump and Thermostat Installed

The exhaust side of the engine must adhere to the Spec E46 rules, so off came the restrictive M54 headers and on went a secondhand set of S52 manifolds.  I picked up this pair for $50, and after a few minutes with the sand blaster they looked brand new.  They went on with new studs, nuts, and gaskets.

Cleaned Up Headers Headers Installed

The DISA valve is another area of concern on these engines.  This valve is found on the intake manifold and opens and closes to adjust intake track length for different loads.  The valves are known to fail early due to weak plastic.  Best case scenario is you lose some power, worst case is the engine ingests some broken parts.  The DISA valve on my 70k mile junk yard engine was completely shot, just flapping around freely.  Fortunately none of the parts were missing.

Good news is that German Auto Solutions makes a very nice upgrade kit that replaces the flimsy plastic flapper and bell-crank with machined and anodized aluminum parts that pivot on a titanium shaft.  The kit comes complete with a new gasket (unavailable from BMW) and all the other necessary parts.  G.A.S. also provides very detailed instructions on whole procedure.

GAS Kit GAS DISA Installed

Since the entire HVAC system was removed, I needed to plug the heater port in the block.  There are several different ways of doing this, but Bimmerworld has produced a very nice kit which plugs the block using a machine aluminum piece with an o-ring and also includes a plug for the expansion tank.

A oil distribution block, also from Bimmerworld, was added to the filter housing.  This provides a means of adding an external oil pressure sensor for the AiM data loger.

Oil Distribution Block Bimmerworld Heater Delete

The remainder of the work to the engine was focused on reliability.  New spark plugs, new crank case vent plumbing, and a good flushing of all the years of sludge.

Completed M54 Finished M54

BMW S50 Race Engine Clean Up and Upgrades

I picked up this S50B30US (S50) several months ago, and for the most part it has been resting on an engine stand awaiting its future home in my ’95 BMW M3 track and race car.  I have been spending a few hours here and there tinkering on it, cleaning up, getting some new parts on it.  Still quite a bit to go, but it’s already a vast improvement.  The main objective with this engine is to have as reliable as possible service as possible.  That means upgrades to both oil and coolant cooling and protection from oil starvation from high g-loads.  It also means being able to monitor the engines vitals through a whole host of sensors and gauges.

First step: clean up the engine.  It wasn’t particularly dirty, but I like working on a fresh and clean engine.  So I used several potent degreasing methods, stripping the old paint.  Then I masked off the head and timing-chain cover and gave the block a coat of aluminum paint (the block is actually iron, painted black from the factory.)

Fresh aluminum paint on the S50S50 freshly painted

Next I removed the old aluminum thermostat housing, which had been tapped for a sensor, and replaced it with a fresh one.  The factory uses a plastic housing, which are prone to cracking and leaking.  This aluminum housing required a little bit of clean up to remove and smooth the casting flashing from the water ways.  Quick work with a Dremel sanding drum.  The engine builder had been running an electric water pump, so the supplied thermostat was welded open.  I replaced it with an OEM thermostat and new o-ring.

Aluminum thermostat housingNew OEM Thermostat

As I mentioned, the previous owner had run an electric water pump.  So they had cut the impeller off of the water pump.  The result was a lot of rust, which had worked its way through the water jacket.  With all the plugs removed, I blasted most of the rust and dust out of the engine with compressed air.  I replaced the old pump with a Stewart all-metal heavy duty water pump, a very popular upgrade for M50-based engines.

Rusty old pumpNew Stewart pump

Here you can see the new pump and thermostat housing installed on the left.  On the right you can see a new aluminum pulley.  The stock pulley is made plastic and has potential to crack.  I’ll be running an electric fan, so no need to mount a clutch to the front of the water pump, so a black anodized aluminum nut protects the threads of the pump shaft.

New thermostat housingAluminum water pump pulley

The M3 won’t be running AC or heat, so I removed the heater port and replaced it with a simple aluminum block-off plate and gasket.

 Heater output portHeater port block-off plate

Now for the oil system.  The Euro-spec engines and the S54 both have provisions for oil coolers, coming stock with oil coolers (such as my M Coupe.)  There are a few different options to add an oil cooler to the S50US engine.  Because the M50 family of engines have so much interchangeability, you can actually install a European (or S54) oil filter housing onto the S50/52 block.  This will give you ports for an oil cooler, but that’s it.  It’s also a fairly expensive option.  The cheapest option is a simple filter cap replacement for one that has ports.  I didn’t care for this option, since it means the hoses run to the top of the filter cap, likely putting them in the way.  I then found another option, the Champion oil filter housing sandwich plate.  The benefit is it offers even more ports.  There are three 1/4″ NPT ports for gauges (marked for pressure, temperature, and auxiliary.)  There are also three 1/2″ NPT ports, two for your oil cooler out/in and one for an Accusump oil accumulator.  The plate simply sandwiches between the stock filter housing and the block.  Longer bolts and two gaskets are provided, as are 1/4″ to 1/8″ adapters for gauge senders.  I added -10AN male fittings to the 1/2″ NPT ports.  Everything sealed up with Permatex high-temp sealant.

Champion oil plateChampion oil plate with sensor adapters and plugs

Since the engine had been involved in a hard wreck, it had shattered its passenger side mount. I replaced it with a solid junk-yard mount, cleaned up with a lot of carb cleaner. Originally I thought the driver’s side mount was fine, but after a thorough cleaning I discovered several hairline cracks. The driver’s mount is very inexpensive new, so I replaced it with a new OE part.

Driver's side engine mountPassenger side engine mount

That’s it for now.  Still lots of work to do.  The headers are off getting ceramic coated.  The wiring still remains, the cooling lines, and of course the flywheel and clutch and mounting the transmission.

Freshly rebuilt S50

Picked up a freshly built S50US with less than 1k on it.  It was in a 318ti before the car met its untimely demise with a wall at the track.  Should provide for a much more reliable lump in my M3.

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Bottom End Internals
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
ARP Con Rod Bolts
New OE Main Bearings
New ACL Tri-Metal Rod Bearings
MultiLayer Steel Head gasket
New Piston Rings
Balanced OE Con Rods
Block fully checked by machine shop for square and cracks. Honed and very lightly decked to ensure good MLS head gasket seal.
All gaskets, seals and guides replaced.
Timing chain guides checked.

Head Work
New Bavarian Solutions (Supercoil) Dual Spring Valve Springs (Overrev Protection)
New Bavarian Solutions Titanium Retainers
All lifters cleaned and checked
Fresh Valve Seals
Fresh valve lapping
Head evaluated at machine shop for leaks: Seals perfectly, no cracks. Very lightly decked to ensure good MLS head gasket seal.
Fully rebuilt Vanos unit. Quiet as a mouse.

Intake and Fuel Management
3.5″ MAF
Mishimoto 3.5″-3.0″ Silicone Intake Boot
Amsoil oversized cone filter
EWS-Disabled ECU with WAR Chip and Solid Tune For the Motor
24lbs Bosch Injectors

Exhaust
Raceland Headers, port-matched to head.

Engine Preservation
VAC Oil Pan Baffle
VAC Oil Pump Upgrade Kit

Damaged shortblock delivered

Not to turn this into too much of an off topic, but this is what was left on my porch when I got home from work today:
[IMG]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2996/img2440oq.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1391/img2445r.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/779/img2448ao.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/3936/img2449u.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/5886/img2451q.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7505/img2452st.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/599/img2454zs.jpg[/IMG]

Looks like it was dropped even more on the same corner, completely flattening the thick cardboard pads on the bottom. Not only that, but the eight flywheel bolts I had in there (nearly $50) are completely gone. And they had the engine resting ontop of the throw-out bearing. Keep in mind this is after UPS pulled everything out for their inspection.

[quote]But did you find out what was wrong originally ?[/quote]Nothing that I can tell. The cylinder walls are smooth as glass, the head looked good. Couldn’t see any visible leaking past the head gasket. Of course the head gasket leaves a lot of residue when removed, so it is difficult to tell.

Engine tear down and cleaning

Well I decided to bite the bullet and just build up a new(er) engine. I got a good deal on a new short block which should get here this week. I have two complete engines already that I’ll be picking and choosing the best parts from, and of course putting new gaskets on everything.

87. Old engine on the stand, with the head removed. Everything looks to be good on the engine. Cleaned up all the mating surfaces, got all the needed components off of it, and will probably sell the short block.
[IMG]http://strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_TX/old_engine_on_stand.jpg[/IMG]

88. My old engine had several layers of paint on it, both blue and black. I haven’t been pleased with any of the store brand spray on engine paints. They all claim to be chemical resistant, but everyone of them has started dissolving after just oil, gas, and simple engine cleaners. So I decided to use some G2 epoxy paint, the same stuff on my calipers. It is good for 900F and has stood up to brake cleaner. In order to get good adhesion I need to strip everything down. I started using brake cleaner, stripping pads on the air tools, and a lot of work with a wire brush. I then got some aircraft stripper, and just started coating the parts with it. This stuff is no joke, I had to wear two pairs of gloves as it just kept burning through. It doesn’t feel too hot when it hits your skin either.
[IMG]http://strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_TX/stripping_parts.jpg[/IMG]

89. Here are some of the parts laid out after initial cleaning. I quickly ran out of table space in the garage, so I picked up a cheap door at Lowes and put it on some saw horses for a make-shift work bench.
[IMG]http://strikewarn.com/uploads/spyder/images/Rotrex/Rotrex_TX/clean_parts_laid_out.jpg[/IMG]

Next up I need to break down and clean the two heads I have. Not sure which I’ll use, whichever appears to be in the best shape.