Motion Motorsports Underpanel for the E36M3

I had purchased a Motion Motorsports underpanel a year or so ago, intending to install it on the E36 race car.  After evaluating how it installs and what I wanted to do with the race car, I decided it would be better suited for a road car.  My reasons: it’s unnecessary if running a front spoiler and it makes removal of the front bumper difficult.

That said, it does offer a number of benefits.  The stock plastic under-panel is a bit flimsy and only serves as a duct to the radiator, providing no real aero benefit or protection for the front of the engine.  The Motion Motorsports panel is made of a fairly thick sheet of aluminum and comes with some beefy hardware.  The install is relatively straight forward, just a few things to look out for and no special tools required.

I also ordered the radiator duct piece from Motion, which helps deflect and funnel air through the radiator, rather than around it.

Here you can see the stock plastic piece, which is held in with four screws.

Stock E36 radiator bottom duct

And here it is removed, with the bottom of the radiator exposed.

OEM Radiator Shield Removed

Now for the hardware.  The kit includes four plastic nut inserts, which are inserted into existing holes on the front frame horns.  This is what the aluminum standoff plates are mounted to (sorry I forgot to grab a photo of that.)  The leading edge of the panel is attached to the urethane bumper using some T-nuts, small carriage bolts, and nuts.

Motion Motorsports Hardware Plastic Nut Inserts on Frame Horns

T-Nut, Bolt, Nut installedThere aren’t any existing holes on the bottom of the OEM bumper, so you have to temporarily install the panel on the standoffs and use it as a template to drill the holes.  Pay close attention to your placement, as the panel is an exact fit.  If you are shifted slightly to one side, it will not seat properly.  With the holes drilled, the T-nuts and carriage bolts are inserted from the top-side.  Then another nut is used to secure the bolt, which essentially sucks up the soft urethane plastic around the T-nut and creates a mounting stud.  See the photo at the right for a better idea.

While I had access to the back of the bumper, I took the opportunity to fix a loose center grill and also secure the OEM brake ducts which had a few broken clips.  Some HVAC aluminum tape worked great for both fixes, which are obviously hidden behind the bumper.

Here you can see the panel and radiator duct together prior to installation.  The radiator duct has a punch out for an electrical connector on the AC condenser, and the whole assembly can be shifted forward or rearward as needed.

Motion Motorsports Panel

The panel also replaces the flimsy pork chop panels that attach to the wheel well liners.  Here it uses some OEM style nut plates and the same bolts as used elsewhere.  Overall the whole system is very stout and adds some rigidity to the entire front bumper and liners.  Not sure if there is any appreciable amount of aero advantage, probably very very little, but it has to smooth out the air flow under the front a bit.  It also adds some protection to the front of the engine for the PS pump, AC compressor, and associated belts.

Motion Motorsports E36 M3 Panel Motion Motorsports E36 M3 Panel

Motion Motorsports E36 M3 Panel Motion Motorsports E36 M3 Panel

BMW M Coupe Pedal Upgrades (extension spring, Delrin bushings, SRP pedals)

SRP Pedals Installed

The M Coupe, as well as many of its “M” contemporaries, came with a very odd clutch pedal and hydraulic setup.  BMW fitted a Clutch Delay Valve inline with the flexible clutch line.  The CDV acts as a flow control valve, limiting the amount of brake fluid released back to master cylinder when you depress the clutch pedal.  It basically slips the clutch, whether you intend to or not, every time.  Theories abound as to why they would do this; but in essence it does nothing but shorten clutch life and make it difficult to shift properly and quickly.  The “CDV delete” as it has come to be know, is a very common upgrade to these cars.  On the M Coupe it just requires replacing the stock flex line, which I did with a RE stainless steel line.  The path to shifting nirvana doesn’t end there though.  BMW also installed a “spring over center” or “helper spring” to the clutch pedal.  This spring helps reduce the amount of force required to press in the clutch pedal.  After an initial hard push, it becomes noticeably lighter and can be held against the stop without much effort.  Again, BMW only used these on a few cars, the M Coupe being one.  Like the CDV, it’s probably great if you have weak legs or are new to manual transmissions, but I found it rather frustrating.  After driving the M3 and Spyder around, a drive in the Coupe had me stalling out and difficulty finding the engagement point.  Fortunately this can be solved easily by removing the helper spring and installing a simple return spring (PN: 35 21 1 158 489) like found on most clutch pedals.  While doing all these upgrades, it’s also advisable to ditch the ill-fitting pedal bushings for solid Delrin units.  This reduces the side to side play of the pedals, giving them a much more solid feel and straight back and forth travel.  To top it all off, a set of SRP aluminum pedals replaces the spongy rubber covers for better pedal feel.

Stock Pedal Setup with Helper Spring

This is the stock setup. You can see the helper spring in the center.

Stock Pedal Bushings vs Delrin Bushings

The OE plastic bushings are loose fitting, you can see the split in the plastic. The Delrin bushings fit much tighter.

Modified Pedals

Here you can see the new setup with the return spring.

SRP Pedals

SRP Aluminum pedals installed.

More information on this upgrade can be found here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79181

New/Old Amplifier & Crossover Rack

A large percentage of my upgrades to the 2002 M Coupe involved ditching the horrendous Harman Kardon  system.  That’s pretty easy to do if you don’t care what it looks like, but I wanted to maintain the stock look of the car, inside and out.  So everything had to fit behind interior panels just like from the factory.  The original HK system uses a separate amplifier from the head unit in the dash.  This amplifier is located behind the passenger seat, underneath a plastic cover that also hides the CD changer (not installed) and the HK subwoofer enclosure.  So rather than reinvent the wheel, I used what was already there.  The factory amplifier would serve as the crossover mount, and the JL 500W 3-channel amplifier (actually just as small as the factory amp) would go where the CD changer would normally go.

JL 500/3 Amplifier Mounted

The JL amp was mounted directly to the thick carpet using industrial Velcro in addition to Rivet-Nuts and bolts.

Mocking up rack in car

I cut the irregular shaped top off the stock mount and replaced it with a flat sheet of aluminum. Here I’m testing fitment using some clamps to hold it in place.

Drilling for rivets

Once I had the size and shape set, I secured the new top with pop-rivets.

Completed Rack with Crossovers Mounted

The final mount, painted semi-gloss black, with the two crossovers mounted.

Wire Labels

The JL amp allows for high-powered (speaker level) input. So the stock wires running from the Business CD were labeled using the factory wiring diagrams (in German) before being cut and spliced. The same was done for the outputs to the speakers.

Lots more to come.  Most of the work is complete already, I just have to get around to sorting through the photos.