12. Moving on to the transmission. After a bit of research and the help of Curt I decided to go with the European MR2 Spyder 6-speed with standard helical LSD. Since it is from a Spyder, all the linkage bolts up. It also already has the reverse block-out.

Here are the gear ratios:
Ratios:
1st: 3.166
2nd: 1.904
3rd: 1.310
4th: 0.969
5th: 0.815
6th: 0.725
Final Drive: 3.941

13. Before I could the transmission on, I needed to swap over the Fidanza lightweight flywheel and ACT HD SS clutch. Both had less than 50 miles on them, not even broken in. I used new Toyota FW bolts this time instead of the ARP bolts, which no one could seem to decide on a torque value for. You can see the small red dots to measure that last quarter turn off of and the torque order written by the bolts:

And the ACT clutch mounted:

14. Since the Rotrex takes up the space previously occupied by the AC compressor, a special mount built by Corky is used to mount the compressor to the hot side. This is the first of its kind, because unlike before it is adjustable:

15. Now for the fueling. While a return setup is not necessary, I wanted to go the extra mile. So I ordered a billet rail from Smaay over at NewCelica.org. This would allow me to have a center feed, with two outlets on either end. It also has provisions for two 1/8″ NPT sending units. I also wanted to maintain the benefits of a fuel damper, like the stock rail. I used a Marren EFI fuel damper mounted on the driver’s side of the rail.

In this photo you can see the damper (red) and the pigtails of the 700cc MWR injectors. The feed port is a 1/4″ NPT 90 degree to -6AN. All fittings are Earl’s Ano-tough Swivel Seal. You can also see how I had to run the wiring harness. I removed all the OEM electrical tape and loom completely from the entire harness to run my additional items and clean everything up.

16. To ensure I would have no leaks, all the AN lines and fittings were pressure checked using a Summit kit. I pressurized the rail to 50 psi and all the lines to 100 psi, which were submerged in water. I only had to re-do one line, and hopefully everything holds. In the following picture you can see the feed and return line. Please do not copy the return line. That 90 degree -6AN hose end will not fit between the crankcase vent and firewall, I’ll be changing that.

17. For the feed side I connected directly to the OE 5/16″ hard line. I used an Earl’s crush collar -6AN fitting for this, followed by more Ano-tough -6AN hose ends and stainless braided hose.

If you look closely below that relay box you can see the boost gauge sending unit. I failed to get pictures, but both it and the oil temp sender’s lines run parallel with the shift cables up to the cubby. If you pull out the large rubber insulator around the shift cables, there is a small area you can cut out in order to run wires. This is a much more direct shot than going through the wire harness holes on the left and right.

18. On the pump side I used an Earl’s 90 degree bulkhead fitting connected to a straight hose end.

I failed to get photos of the lines to the Aeromotive Compact EFI Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, but it is mounted next to the passenger side engine lid hinge. All the stainless lines are held secure using rubber isolated hose clasps bolted to nutserts.

19. Here’s a shot showing the belt’s path:

20. As for the hose routing, it’s pretty straightforward… but there’s only so much you can do with the engine out of the car. Inevitably there will be interference issues. So I got everything as close to complete as reasonable before installing. Here you can see the basic layout:

Please note that the coolant hoses will need tweaking, and a few of the T-bolt clamps had to be rotated for clearance purposes. I also machined down my Rotrex’s outlet neck to allow more clearance. Before it was machined, the first 90 degree bend was pressed into the bottom of the alternator (not a huge issue.) Now it doesn’t touch at all. Also note the Turbo Supra MAF which has been shortened by Web3.0 for more clearance for the IC.

In case you were wondering, the BOV is actually a recirculate valve. Heater hose runs from the BOV’s exhaust to this fitting on the intake side of the Rotrex:

This should be a considerably quiet FI car.

21. And just for sh!ts and giggles.

Before anyone goes off on me about being a Lotus wanabe; I’ll be sanding that down. Hopefully it turns out well, I’ve got some ideas for it. The valve cover was finished in wrinkle black powder coat by JNZ Finishing and the valve cover was bolted down using some stainless allen head bolts from McMaster with black anodized washers from Serina.

22. Back in the engine goes. This is the third method I’ve used to remove/install an engine, and it’s not quite there. I really needed a better wooden stand for the engine, and that motorcycle lift really could have used casters on all four corners.

Lots more to come… But I’ll be taking a short break to ready a truck for sale.