13 track-day essentials: To go fast, you need this stuff.

The following article was written by Andrea Cairone of AxisofOversteer.com and was published on Road & Track’s website. You can find the original posting here.  I thought it was a pretty good, albeit short, article on some of the essentials of taking a daily-driver car to the track.  Below is the article in its original format. -Chad

M Coupe with tire rack

Track days have become more popular as enthusiasts search for places to explore the performance potential of their cars without getting into trouble, at least with the law.

Once exposed to it, you’ll probably be hooked—track driving is both exhilarating and addictive. Trouble is, track days can be much harder on equipment than a beginner may realize. Getting to a quality venues often involves a long drives to a remote location, and the last thing you want is having your weekend ruined because you weren’t prepared. While there’s always someone with tools at these events, you have no way of knowing for sure if their kit will include, say, that 7mm hex socket you need to change pads on your BMW. Better to be prepared and independent, so let’s examine what you should consider bringing to your next ripping session.

Track Day Gear
Andrea Cairone

1. Helmet

Many clubs have loaner lids and you might consider using one if it’s your first time, but trust me, you don’t want to stick your head inside one of those community sweatboxes any more than necessary. If you buy your own helmet, make sure it has the required certification. This varies from club to club. Most helmets on the market today carry a Snell SA2010 rating, meaning they’re good until the year 2020. The general consensus about how much to spend on one is simple: as much as you can.

A neck protector is also a good idea, but karting-style neck protectors are not optimal for use in a car. I use a HANS device for neck protection, but that can only be used if your car is fitted with proper belts and seats. There are other head-restraint devices on the market that can be used with a three-point belt, like the Simpson R3.

2. Track Tires

There are two schools of thought about tires for track days. There’s much to be said about what you can learn using street tires and the lower limits they impose on the car but, what if you ruin one and have a five-hour drive home? The hassle of getting wheels shod with track tires to the track will seem like a bargain, especially after having experienced a session on fat, sticky rubber. The issue then becomes how to get four wheels to the track, and that’ll depend on your car. If they won’t all fit inside, you might use a roof rack or a small trailer.

3. Socket Set

At the track, the most likely bit of fiddling you’ll do is changing brake pads, so at the very least, make sure you have the correct sockets and wrenches to get that job done on your car.

4. A Good Torque Wrench

It’s essential that your wheels are properly torqued (not over-torqued). You should check your lugs or nuts before every session.

5. Duct Tape

Is an explanation really necessary?

6. A Tire-Pressure Gauge

You need to monitor your tire pressures, as they will increase as your tires heat. The right pressure will depend on your tire and car, so you need a reliably accurate gauge as part of your kit.

7. Work Gloves and Cleaners

Your car will be dirty and hot, covered in bugs and rubber boogers. Be prepared.

8. Tool Bag

It should contain zip ties, wrenches and screwdrivers, a breaker bar, cutters, a rubber mallet, spare lugs or nuts, and so on.

9. Cameras and Data Loggers

Everyone has a GoPro nowadays, as studying video can be an invaluable learning tool. Same goes for data loggers. You can go with a small standalone unit like the AIM Solo, a smartphone app, or even, on some new cars, built-in tech like Ford’s track apps.

10. Cordless Impact Wrench

Don’t buy anything less than an 18V unit if you want to be able to break bolts loose with it.

11. Extra Brake Pads

Along with gas and tires, brake pads are the main consumable. And consume them you will so, learn how to change pads efficiently. Don’t waste your time on pads advertised as “street/track capable”. Generally, that means they’re not great in either situation.

12. Oil and Brake Fluid

Always have the correct amount of oil in the engine before you drive onto the circuit. Extra brake fluid will be handy if you need to bleed the brakes. If you track often, you’ll want to change your brake fluid to one with a higher boiling point.

13. Aluminum Jack and Jack Stands

You can buy a lightweight, compact, and easy-to-use jack for around $100. Just make sure you check it often, as they can go bad on short notice. Never, ever work under the car without jack stands.

GoPro Camera Setup

Now that I’ve got more and more into heading to the track, I had to make one of the (many) mandatory additions to my tool kit: an action camera.  I own a very old bullet camera setup that I used to use to record flight video, putting together some motivational “hooah” videos for the unit.  It worked fairly well, keeping in mind this was well before GoPro existed.  On the downside, it was standard definition and required an external recorder, which meant toting around a pair of old Canon video cameras I picked up off of eBay.  Fast forward to today, and everybody at the track has a GoPro (or Racecam or Contour or SmartyCam.)  They make for a good tool to see where you need to improve, how mistakes unfolded, and just plain bragging rights (usually for the folks captured passing me.)

I did a bit of researching and settled on the GoPro Hero 3 Black.  It was (and still is at the time of this post) the top of the line action camera.  Highest resolution, fastest frame rates, WIFI, yada yada, so on and so forth.  Sony also recently released a very tempting camera, and Contour (or whatever they are calling themselves now) was also keeping their products competitive.  I went with the GoPro not only based on the positive reviews of its video quality, but more so because it is by far and away the most popular camera.  I reckoned this would mean more support from fellow users, easier time getting assistance out in the field, and more accessories.  I was right and all that turned out to be very true.

Unfortunately, the first Hero 3 I received failed to update its firmware.  I got a continuous over-temp warning, then the camera would automatically shut down.  I went through the GoPro customer support, who tried to walk me through several work-arounds, all of which failed, including beta versions of the firmware.  Fortunately the seller I purchased from offered to take it back and send me out another one.  Thankfully this version powered up correctly and took the update like it should.  So I finally got the opportunity to test it out.

Below is my first video using the GoPro.  The camera was mounted using my old Panavise mount to the glass roof, the open-back door and that’s it.

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v32RVRCdXl8

As you can see, the wind noise and rattling is pretty bad.  Additionally I didn’t have the correct settings for widescreen, or I might have messed it up during processing.  I knew I had to do something about the wind noise.  So you would think placing the camera inside would cure this issue… nope.  In fact it introduces a whole other issue: rattling/popping/crackling!  I thought maybe my second Hero3 was also dysfunctional, but a quick Google search revealed that it was a very common issue, especially when using the on-board microphone in an automotive environment.  Listen below to see what I’m talking about:

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neXLSF5dJzQ

The common solutions appears to be just circumventing the on-board microphone and going to an external.  I searched around for what others were using, and I ran across the Polar Pro Filters microphone (more on that later).  It was reasonably priced, or so I thought, so I gave it a try.  I picked up the GoPro USB-to-3.5mm Stereo adapter (necessary with the Hero3) and male to female extension cord from Walmart.  You can’t simply plug the microphone adapter into the camera, since the water-proof case has no provision for access.  I could purchase another $50 Skeleton Case, which has multiple access points, or just simply Dremel out the access I required.  I opted to use the case I already had, I don’t intend to do any water sports recording, at least not anytime soon.  Simple enough job to do, and provides for a tight fit.

Below you can see the hole I cut to allow the microphone adapter to plug into the mini-USB port.  On the back of the case (the door) I added a zip-tie anchor, adhered using 3M trim-tape.  This allows me to secure the mic adapter without it flopping around.

Hole cut in side of caseZip-tie attachment

I used another zip-tie anchor on the license plate of my M Coupe to attach the microphone to.  The stereo extension cord was plenty long enough to stretch between the camera and rear hatch area.  I few tactically placed zip-ties and painters tape kept everything secured.  You can see the setup in the four photos below.

wpid-IMG_20130713_083450_170.jpgwpid-IMG_20130713_083434_755.jpg

wpid-IMG_20130713_083551_073.jpgwpid-IMG_20130713_083543_653.jpg

The audio quality was immensely improved over the internal GoPro microphone.  Wind noise was drastically cut, as was the crackling and popping.  The downside: I was picking up a lot of subsonic noise from the exhaust.  The quad Supersprint exhaust and headers make for a very deep throb, which overwhelms the microphone.  Playback on a phone or laptop and you probably wouldn’t notice this.  But play back on a real stereo and be prepared for blown subwoofers.  The video below is with the Polar Pro microphone setup as shown above (WARNING: Check your volume first.)

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47KyxPo2Nwc

I started looking for ways around this, such as higher end microphones.  This led me to the Sony  ECM DS70P (they can be had for $45 on Amazon) which in turn led me to numerous posts about cheap Chinese knock-offs of this microphone, and in turn Polar Pro’s use of these knock-offs.  I examined my Polar Pro microphone closer, discovering it had already cracked after one use.  I cut away the wind-blocker to see what I had, sure enough it was a Chinese copy.  They look very similar, but the quality is not there.  These copies can be found for under $10 online, yet Polar Pro is charging $40 (or $20 without the wind-blocker.)  The photos below show a comparison of the Sony (left) and the Polar Pro Chinese copy (right.)  Notice they removed the word “Sony” yet it is cast into the plastic in the back.

 Sony vs Polar ProSony vs Polar Pro 2

I simply placed the wind-blocker from the Polar Pro onto the new Sony microphone, securing it with hot-glue just like it was before.  I haven’t had an opportunity to test the new Sony microphone, but I’ll be sure to update this post with my impressions.

Of course you also need a place to put all this fancy equipment, so I naturally started looking for a Pelican case.  Nearly every tool or test set I work with comes with a customized Pelican case, and while expensive, they are worth it.  I found an eBay seller who offers cases customized with cutouts for single cams, two cams, two layers, etc.  Prices were competitive, and he offers several different colors.  I’m able to fit two cameras (one for now), two suction mounts, batteries, chargers, remotes, microphones, cables, even my Qstarz BT-Q818XT Bluetooth GPS.

GoPro PartsGoPro in Pelican Case

I still have quite a bit of tinkering left to really dial in the “right” setup, to include settings on the camera and post-capture video processing.  I’ll be sure to add new posts once I get a chance to try out the microphone or any other updates I make.

Wiring and more Wiring

The M3 is practically a bare chassis, except for the rear subframe, fuel tank, and that god forsaken wiring.  I anticipated this being the biggest hassle of the build, and so far it has been.  The air-conditioning and heating unit require every bit of the dash and support bars to be removed.  It bolts through the firewall, secured from the engine side.  I’m not sure you could do all this with the engine in, having it and the windshield out has made the work much easier.  The brake ABS motor, manifold, and booster have now all been removed.  I should now be able to snake the brake hard lines out from the front, leaving the engine bay empty except for the fuse box.  The fuse box will require the entire wiring harness from the cabin passing through the firewall.  Before I do that, I need to pair down as much of the wiring as possible.

Empty Engine BayHVAC Unit Removed

Driver side wiringDiscarded stereo wires

Passenger footwell wiringRemoved black boxes

Back seat wiringPile of parts removed from car

Mostly stripped down carTwo trash bags full of sound insulation

M3’s Engine & Transmission Out!

And driveshaft, steering rack, heat shields, and everything else that must come out to remove the engine.  There are several different ways to do this, I simply removed the steering rack and subframe, then lowered it down using an engine hoist and ratchet straps around the engine mounts with a floor jack under the transmission.  Used a wooded furniture dolly to rest it on, then wheeled it out.  This engine and trans is completely filthy, one of the dirtiest I’ve ever seen.  I’m pretty sure the rear main seal is leaking, and the emissions system was blowing crud all over as well.

It wasn’t as difficult as I was anticipating.  The wiring was actually pretty easy, as the engine loom is completely contained within the engine bay and disconnects from the body harness with a simply screw off connector.  A few power wires, grounding cables, and three clip on relays and that’s it.  The hardest part is getting to the heater lines behind the head.  Since I’m deleting the heater core, I simply cut them.  It would be quite a bit harder if you wished to save them.  The MR2 Spyder, on the other hand, runs it’s complete engine harness through the firewall and into the cockpit.  The S50 is by no means a light engine, with a cast iron block, but it lowered down straight and wasn’t too much of a hassle.

Prior to removing the engine I had removed the washer reservoir, vapor canister, intake, and cruise control off of the inner fenders.  Of course the core support and entire front end was off as well.  This could be done leaving those in place, but I wouldn’t want to.  Now to start cleaning up that mess of an engine bay and repairing the damage to front right.

Engine Hoist Hooked UpLowering Engine

Empty Engine BayEngine Removed