Homebrew Trailer Tire Rack

Up until recently I have been carrying my extra race slicks and rain tires in the back of my truck.  Not too long ago I got a mid-rise ARE bed cap, which certainly made it easier to carry and secure all the track extras.  But it was still a pain to crawl up into the bed to get wheels out, especially since I was loading them towards the front for better weight distribution.  They were also taking up a lot of room in the Titan’s short 5.5′ bed.

Tire rack in progressI’d been wanting to get an aluminum trailer tire rack to match the aluminum open trailer.  Unfortunately there isn’t anything off the shelf that would work, it would have to be completely custom.  I’ve got a MIG welder, but no spool gun for welding aluminum.  So I decided to go the simpler (and cheaper) route and build one out of steel.

I built the rack entirely out of 1.5×1.5″ square and 1×2″ tube, both in 14 ga wall thickness.  I also wanted a better method to store the fuel jugs.  Previously I was strapping them down individually to the tool box, which was time consuming to do and not very clean.  The solution was a couple horizontal bars for the jugs to rest on, with another bar to capture them at the rear.  The front of the jugs rest against the tool box.  I welded on four small tie down rings to hook a ratchet strap into and run through the handles of the jugs.  The jugs are raised off the trailer deck to provide room for the Warn winch located below.

Fuel Jug Tie DownsAnother feature of the rack is that it is completely removable from the trailer.  The trailer came equipped with stake holders along the perimeter, used to hold 2×4″ wood.  The “feet” of the rack go down into these stake holders to provide lateral and longitudinal support.  Four J-bolts secure the rack to the trailer, which hook into the bottom of the stake holders.

To secure the wheels to the rack I went with the standard method of running a tube though the bores.  To prevent damage to the wheels finish I used a piece of gray electrical PVC conduit as the outer portion of the tube.  Inserted into the PVC pipe is a galvanized steel electrical conduit tube to provide strength.  The two pieces are permanently boded together with black polyurethane sealant.

Tire Rack Wheel LocksThe tube slides through an oversized hole cut into a piece of plate steel which is secured to the rack using M8 nutserts and stainless bolts.  I cut oblong holes into the plate to allow for adjusting the height of the tube for slightly different tire sizes.  If necessary, a completely different end plate can be made and installed for much larger or smaller wheels/tires.

I drilled a hole through the tube on both ends of the tube to allow for installing a lock.  I did it on both side in case one side is blocked by another trailer/truck in the paddock.  This way I can remove the tube from either side.

I finished off the rack with a coat of Rustoleum red primer, followed by aluminum spray paint.  I know I’ll have to go back and touch up several spots, especially where the tires rub the horizontal bar.  Ideally I would like to get the entire thing powdercoated.

In the photos you can see cardboard between the wheels, which was a temporary solution to keep the wheel faces from rubbing each other while travelling.  Since these photos were taken I have procured some corrugated plastic (same stuff used to make yard signs) to act as a cushion between the wheels.

Front of the Tire Rack Back of the Tire Rack

CMP Test Day

Note:  This event took place on 30 July 2015, just getting caught back up with posts.

Setup in the shade at CMPMy last test day at Carolina Motorsports Park ended prematurely when my radiator popped off its mount and the belt cut into the coolant expansion tank.  With the car back home I pulled the plugs to check the compression since it saw temperature spikes over 250F.  Fortunately the numbers came back good, actually matching the numbers I had taken when I first installed the engine.

I put the car back together, this time with a new CSF OEM+ radiator and a cooler 80C thermostat while ditching the stock fan, and headed back to CMP to get some testing in.  I knew the car needed some chassis tuning after its first race post-crash.

Adjusting the front barIt was a low turn out at the track, so we were able to double up on track time.  That’s 8 full 30 minute sessions.  That’s a lot of driving in a single day, so I cut a few sessions short and skipped the last one.  What I did discover was that I needed a little more rear end grip.  The week prior I had done some ride height adjustments and corner balanced the car at a friend’s house.  The first couple sessions were a mess, I either spun or got into some serious tail out action.

I brought the car in and decided to stiffen the front bar one notch.  This had an immediate positive impact, the car was much more neutral, at least as much as I could get it on CMP’s slick surface.  Either way it felt much better and gave me more confidence going into my upcoming NASA race at Road Atlanta.

As for the engine temps; the car ran much cooler.  I was seeing a high temp of around 202F, albeit in completely clean air.  Looks like removing the stock fan and shroud allowed for better flow through the radiator.  I also had done a little work with foam rubber insulation to force air through the radiator rather than around it.

 

Spec E46 First Shakedown

Before a race car turns a wheel in anger, it really should be put through its paces in a test or shakedown drive.  Since this car isn’t street legal and you could never truly test in on public roads, you need to schedule some track time.  Fortunately I’m only an hour away from Carolina Motorsports Park (CMP) in Kershaw, SC.  They even have their own track day organizer, Turn One, that has multiple events a month, making it fairly easy to get track time.

Spec E46 Alignment

After alignment, I loaded up the car on the trailer and headed for CMP to see how all my work handled.  It was a weekday event, so the track was fairly empty, great for some testing and tuning.  Just like any track day event, the car went through a short tech inspection.  Normally this wouldn’t be necessary on a race car, but I hadn’t received an annual tech inspection yet.

Spec E46 Loaded for Testing

The first session was just a an exploratory lap, since I had never driven this track before.  The tires were also fresh sticker and we were receiving some light rain, so it was a bit slippery but grip gradually came in.  That said, CMP is a very slick track, nowhere near as grippy as NOLA, COTA, or Road Atlanta.  It reminded me a lot of Motorsports Ranch Cresson, which is very old pavement and very slick in light rain.

Towards the end of my first session I was black flagged, which was odd because I had no off track excursions and there were only 2 other cars on track.  I pulled into the pit lane and up to the pit exit marshal who told me several corner stations were hearing a loud metallic screeching sound from my car.  He did a quick walk around of the car and noticed a lot of aluminum shavings on the rear left wheel…. great.

Cut Apex Wheel Wheel Shavings

I pulled off the pit lane, headed back to the garage to see what had happened.  Turns out I picked up a rock, which became jammed between the caliper and wheel.  It then worked just like a lathe, cutting a 1mm deep groove around the inside of the wheel.  My guess is that I picked it up during the tech inspection, as the tech shed and weigh station is off a gravel road (terrible layout.)

I pulled the wheel and gave it a good inspection, even called the friendly folks at Phil’s Tire Service to see what they had to say.  I forwarded them some photos, which they in turn sent on to Apex Wheels.  After a close inspection, I determined it was reasonably safe to continue on for the day.  I took it a little more carefully, avoiding the curbing as much as I could.

Spec E46 Testing

The car continued to run well throughout the remaining sessions.  Temps were within safe margins and the engine felt decently strong.  I knew the alignment could use a bit more dialing in, and a corner balance was definitely in order.  It was certainly nice to finally be in a true race car with a proper race seat and harness, making it much less physically demanding to drive the car while also easier to feel what the chassis was doing under me.

Then towards the end of the fourth and final session I suddenly lost power steering.  It was a sudden stoppage, like I had experience in my E36 when it popped a line at Road Atlanta.  I pulled back into the paddock to check what happened.  A quick glance under the power steering reservoir cap revealed the telltale signs of a ruined pump, as it was sparkling with a metallic sheen.  And so ended my test day.

Steering Pump Shaft Ruined LF20 Pump

Once back home I pulled the power steering pump to discover the pulley shaft was completely disconnected from the pump and free spinning.  No doubt this was a design function, a break-away shaft much like those found on the air turbine starters on jet engines.  I further disassembled the pump to discover the vanes which slide in and out of slots where dislodged and had jammed up the pump.  My guess is that this was the original pump and at 220k miles it had just had enough.

All in all, not a terrible first run of the car.  It showed its weak points, and that is the point of testing after all.

Reading is Fundamental

Racing BooksIf you are like me, then you’ve probably spent countless hours reading numerous online forum posts on how you can drive faster or how to make your car faster and anything in between.  There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, much (if not most) of my car related knowledge has been gleaned from various internet sources.  Unfortunately, without doubt, you reach a point where it’s difficult to separate truth from fiction, or actual facts from someone’s anecdotal evidence.  The trick is to take it all with a grain of salt, to take the most commonly held beliefs as mostly the truth.  You can always improve your odds of receiving good advice by considering the source, there are some fairly well known and respected individuals out there who do take the time to entertain questions in a public forum, or better yet, catch them at the track.  But when all else fails, and you reach a plateau of knowledge, step it up by going old school.

Books, yes books.  Those bound paper things I’m currently using to flatten out wrinkled decals with.  I’ve already got a healthy collection of professional development books, along with a suitcase full of technical manuals and federal publications related to aviation but nothing in the motorsports or performance driving realm.  So I hit the interwebs a bit more, in search of the best publications on the subject.  Of course Amazon provides a healthy list of candidates, and what’s more, in cheap slightly used form.  A few minutes later and my virtual shopping cart was filled with titles such as “Speed Secrets”, “Tune to Win”, “Going Faster!”, and “Drive to Win”.  I also recently acquired an Android tablet, a Galaxy Tab 3 10.1″ to be exact, to use as an e-reader, web browser, and all-around useful tool.

I promise to provide my opinions on these pubs as soon as I finish them.  So far I’m a third of the way through with “Going Faster!”, which is the Skip Barber Racing School’s “bible” of sorts.  So far, so good.  It’s a great deal of information, some of which I was fairly familiar with, but presented in easy to understand terms with helpful graphic depictions.  It has really helped put a more technical or scientific spin on what I was already witnessing at the track in the car.  I’ve also utilized the tablet to consolidate my service manuals for all my cars, making for a handy shop tool.  It also allows for watching of YouTube DIY videos, online forum how-to’s, and any other source of information than can be found on the Internet.  A very smart purchase indeed.  In fact, I’ve already had a number of cyber-buddies forward scanned copies of articles on subjects ranging from under-body aerodynamics to instructor development.

 

MR2 Spyder Rollbar by Illicit Motorsports

Jason from Illicit Motorsports did a bang up job installing this 4-point rollbar, harness bar, battery mount, and Lotus seat mounts in the MR2.  What’s more is he did it in short order, while he was preparing for nationals in Utah, so that I could make a track event.  Unfortunately some hold-ups with the harness installation and a few other last minute items kept me from making it to the track with the MR2.  He left the bars bare, which I coated with some rust preventive paint, followed by some POR-15 epoxy paint.  It didn’t come out as smooth as I had hoped, so much for “self leveling” paint.  The battery is larger than the original Deka I was running, this one easily cranks the engine every time.  Moving it to behind the passenger seat also got it away from the heat coming off the headers and probably did a little bit to aid in the weight distribution.  The bar was made after I visited his shop so measurements with my helmet on could be made.  The main hoop is as tall as possible without interfering with the hardtop, while the braces are welded to thick plate on the tubular reinforcement that runs along the top of the firewall.  The main hoop’s bases are welded to more plate just behind the fuel tank bulkhead.  A little customizing of a OEM harness bar I picked up in a junkyard allowed me to keep the stock three-point belts, though I haven’t yet fabricated a mount for the female receptacle.  I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

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